Interview -meanswhile
We sat down with Naohiro Fujisaki at Paris Fashion Week to discuss meanswhile’s AW20 collection.
We ventured down for a chat with Naohiro Fujisaki, founder of Tokyo-based utilitarian menswear brand meanswhile. Off the back of being chosen as one of the Tokyo Fashion Awards 2020 winners, meanswhile were showcasing their Autumn/Winter 2020 collection in Paris alongside other award winners.
The contemporary menswear brand has just celebrated its 5th year, with AW20 their 11th collection. Taking inspiration from styles including workwear, military, sportswear and historic Japanese garments, combined with Fujisaki's passion for camping, fishing & being outdoors, meanswhile focusing on functionality, with the ethos "more than just a garment, clothes are a tool".
The brand's AW 20 collection gravitates around a modular, deconstructive theme, with many pieces that can be worn in varying forms. Many pieces from the collection can link together with one another, too. The collection boasts collaborations with American workwear giant Dickies, as well as the Japanese shoe brand KIDSLOVEGAITE.
Hi Naohiro, it's great to be here with you in Paris. What does it mean for meanswhile to be showing here this week?
This is our 6th time showing in Paris. However, it is our first time in a showroom alongside other winners of the Tokyo Fashion Awards. While it feels very much like business as usual, it is a great honour to be in a showroom alongside other 'winners' - it's inspiring.
We can also see that being in this showroom would be inspiring; there are many great brands here. How has the collection been received?
This collection has been our most favourably received so far. As this is the collection I enjoyed making the most, it's been great to have appropriate feedback that matches my excitement.
It is easy to see why the collection has received great feedback. Could you explain more about meanswhile's mantra, "more than just a garment, clothes are a tool"?
We emphasise the idea that clothes are a tool; it is at the heart of the brand. With meanswhile, I always try to pursue this ideology and work to serve the consumer's needs. We are hoping this mentality can become more prevalent in fashion.
What is your inspiration behind this collection in particular?
At the heart of this collection are modular pieces that can be taken apart and worn in different forms. This inspiration came from the uniform of Ancient Japanese warriors from the Sengoku period, almost 1000 years ago. These warriors would wear a metal plate that covered their whole body and limbs up to their hands and would be fastened from the chest. This was the core of the inspiration, and from there, I branched out in terms of deconstructive details.
Do you have any favourites from the collection, and which pieces were the most rewarding to design?
My favourite piece from this season is the shawl, which comes in a down iteration and leather. Inspired by Kimonos, it is cut from one fabric sheet, and no part is wasted. With that idea, I started with a rectangular piece. By adding zips, I made it into a shawl that can also be used as a muffler, amongst many other things.
Through interviewing various brands in Paris this week, we've noticed a great focus on the fashion-function crossover. While meanswhile has always been known for this, do you feel you will continue to see a trend of brands adopting this look?
Looking at functional and hi-tech clothing through the lens of a "trend", I would say that it definitely won't last, as trends are short-term crazes. We have been in the realm of functionality since our first season, so we don't see ourselves as jumping on any trends. In fashion, trends come and go; right now, sustainability is a big emphasis. However, that is a reaction due to how bad things were before. No matter what comes and goes, we will strive to keep the same ethos we have always had.
Finally, can you tell us your plans for the future?
With winning an award at the Tokyo Fashion Awards, we have our own fashion show during Tokyo Fashion Week; I am very excited to plan that.
Secondly, while I can't give away names, we have had many collaboration offers. These offers haven't necessarily been from other clothing brands but from brands in various fields, including bicycles, fans and watches. We are excited to have the opportunity to work with experts in these fields and to see how we can give our own take on these items through the lens of a clothing brand.
meanswhile’s AW20 collection is available now.
For stockist information, visit meanswhile.net